Rather than offering up a bulging menu of pork, beef, chicken and tilapia, Raul Ortega does one thing with absolute integrity at his Mariscos Jalisco truck parked on Olympic Boulevard: tacos dorados de camarón. A secret blend of vegetables, fresh shrimp and assorted spices is packed inside a corn tortilla and fried together, resulting in a crunchy, warm, staggeringly tasty taco dorado, blackened at the edges and overloaded with red salsa and a few cooling slices of avocado. There are other tacos like those found at Mariscos Jalisco (as legend has it, the current taquero even used to belong to a rival truck but was kicked to the curb once his recipe was stolen), but there is no other truck in the city of Los Angeles that is as dedicated or as focused as Mariscos Jalisco. 3040 E. Olympic Blvd., Boyle Heights. —Farley Elliott

LA Weekly