Maybe this city's fine-dining scene has not declined, as some have said, so much as it has migrated. Specifically, to the streets, where chefs like Wes Avila — who worked with Gary Menes at Le Comptoir, among other places — are using tacos as vessels upon which they apply their considerable talent. For a handful of hours on a handful of days each week, Avila sets up his Guerrilla Tacos stand outside of Handsome Coffee Roasters and constructs tacos like pork shoulders with fried eggs and heirloom zucchini with a smudge of burnt tomato chili and a stretch of queso Oaxacana, which sees a few seconds on the plancha before landing on the tortilla. The menu changes weekly depending on the season and Avila's whims, but regardless of what's on deck, you'll have a taco on the same caliber as most upscale taquerias in town, if not better. This is, in other words, dining at its finest. 582 Mateo St., dwntwn.. (818) 640-3033, —Tien Nguyen

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