These days, having a Sunday supper is almost de rigueur at a certain kind of market-driven, farm-to-table restaurant. But it's easy to forget that in 1998, the idea of a prix fixe Sunday dinner in which the chef decides what everyone eats was pretty much unheard of — unless you were somewhere in the French countryside. When Suzanne Goin opened Lucques, in September 1998, she decided that Sundays would be special — and 15 years, four more restaurants, and one near-legendary cookbook (Sunday Suppers at Lucques) later, they still are. Sit in the canopied patio or by the fireplace and dine on Tunisian lamb and eggplant stew with farro and harissa, yellow tomato gazpacho, and churros and chocolate, or one of the myriad other dishes Goin dreamed up a decade or a week ago, and pretend you're in her kitchen eating with the family — which you kind of are, since her family and her kitchen are all of Los Angeles. 8474 Melrose Ave., W. Hlywd. (323) 655-6277, —Amy Scattergood

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