Who was it that said fine dining was dead? Were we supposed to believe no one wanted to spend tons of money on dinner anymore? If that's the case, then what's up with the return of the old-school steak house? A great steak house is a reason to get dressed up, drink martinis and behave as though the economy never collapsed in the first place. And in the last year, L.A. has gotten a ton of new places to do just that. To name just a few: In Manhattan Beach, David LeFevre has given us the Arthur J; a few miles south in Hermosa, Tin Vuong opened the straightforwardly named Steak and Whisky; and Brentwood has the opulent Baltaire. Hooray for all of these, because if we're going to have a trend it might as well involve old-man cocktails, creamed spinach and big hunks of meat.

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