Those who have visited this second incarnation of wildly popular sausage purveyor Wurstküche on a Friday night or Saturday lunch might be bowled over by the suggestion of “quiet.” Prime time is marked by lines out the door for food, a deejay bolstering the alternative-club atmosphere and communal tables packed with Venice's finest flannel. Come after the lunch rush but before the dinner masses and the ambience changes entirely. Exposed brick protects you from the oppressive traffic of Lincoln Boulevard. A peripheral glance at the frosted-glass windows will have you mistaking a blazing summer day for a cozy winter afternoon. Sample a rattlesnake-and-rabbit sausage and any of five mustards that accompany it. Take a long quaff from your dimpled mug of Spaten Optimator and try to convince yourself that you're not in the pages of a Dwell magazine Bavarian-lodge spread. Nothing is more satisfying than genuine conversation with the bartender and a leisurely perusal of the rare beer list in off-peak hours. 625 Lincoln Blvd., Venice. (213) 687-4444,
—Erika Bolden

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