It's not often that you see a young man in white skinny jeans, his hair styled in something resembling a pompadour, his face adorned with purple-rimmed shades, sitting down to dinner with a 50-year-old woman wearing Liz Claiborne sandals. But hipsters do have mothers, and mothers are required to take their children out to eat. So where, oh where, could their tastes possibly overlap? Luckily, hipsters have been developing a fairly discerning palate over the years, but the corporate ambiance and safe menu at a place like Houston's will make them feel dirty and uncomfortable. The hipster will suggest somewhere like Cactus Taqueria, the mother will ask if they have tablecloths and the hipster will respond that they barely have tables. Then, after about an hour of both sides sighing audibly, they'll meet somewhere in the middle. The best choice for such a compromise would be Jitlada. It's about as upscale as it gets in Thai Town (which still makes it extremely affordable), has truly delightful food, and Mom won't spend the whole meal complaining that the mussels don't look safe to eat. 5233 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A. (323) 663-3104.
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