Few itamae balance the stylings of modern and classic sushi with the flair of Kiriko Sushi's Ken Namba. Some days there will be plump tomato geleé or squares of bright orange king salmon that Namba smokes himself in the back kitchen. Other times it's pale lozenges of skipjack topped with yuzu rind and shaved pink sea salt. He might even surprise you with a bowl of cooked tuna mashed with bits of okra, green onion and grated yamaimo, a dish that would be well received at any PTA potluck. Kiriko is a place where it pays to be a regular — that albacore sashimi with ponzu jelly from one night might transform into a seared fillet dusted with fried garlic the next. But Kiriko's most appealing feature may be its flexible pricing — a generous lunch menu allows you to experience a full omakase meal at rates much lower than the dinner price, or any place in town, for that matter. 11301 W. Olympic Blvd., #102, W.L.A. (310) 478-7769, kirikosushi.com.