You already know Jitlada. You've witnessed the power of its chile use firsthand, and you've thumbed through its Southern Thai menu, which spans hundreds of regional dishes. But in all those entree options, you won't find its off-menu Jitlada Thai Burger; it's a special creation from owner Jazz Singnasong herself. The dual-pattied beef concoction is tossed with palm sugar and a touch of funky garlic, then topped with raw red onions, a thick tomato slice, some fresh basil and plenty of sweet, tangy, mustard-like sauce. The whole pile is served in a wrapped lettuce leaf, which is less “protein-style” than necessity; Jazz's kitchen is diminutive, and stocking buns just doesn't make sense. Ask nicely the next time you're in (or better, call ahead) and you just may be able to taste Jitlada's off-menu creation for yourself. 5233 1/2 W. Sunset Blvd., Thai Town. (323) 667-9809, —Farley Elliott

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