Cupcakes are so, like, yesterday. And if you think that Pinkberry is a healthy way to satisfy your sweet tooth, read the fine print: up to 28 grams of sugar for a measly half-cup, not to mention a sky-high price tag. For a mere $1.50, do what the Parisians do. Indulge in a decadent bite. Nab a sidewalk table at Plaisir, the oh-so-French eatery on le boulevard Santa Monique, and order a pretty pastel cream puff. Flavors rotate daily: vanilla, chocolate, coconut, cheesecake, Irish cream, red velvet, pomegranate, banana, cappuccino, strawberry, lemon, chocolate-hazelnut. If you're lucky, you'll be served by owner Daniel Salva, a former London financier who turned in his trading days for a toque, or even chef-partner Philippe Dray, who will say only that the puffs' delicate mousselike filling, which makes you want another and another, is his well-kept secret. There are also praiseworthy quiches, Belgian waffles, croque monsieur, crepes and other exquisite desserts. But the word on the street is that they sometimes run out of cream puffs. So get there early. 8613 Santa Monica Blvd., W. Hlywd. (310) 855-7177, —Heidi Dvorak

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