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Just when you think you've tried all the different possible permutations of chef-y pizza in town, along come Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo to totally flip your world. The secret to their pizzas at the sleek new Jon & Vinny's lies in the dough — which rests for 48 hours and develops a satisfying, earthy tang — and in the gas-and-wood-powered stone hearth oven, which creates an extraordinarily crispy crust like those found on coal-oven pies. No floppy, knife-and-fork pizza here. While the undercarriage stays thin and crisp, the edges puff up, turning into some of the most wonderful breadsticks in town. The menu also offers an entertaining selection of “crust dips,” including a dynamite ranch dressing made with pickled ramps, but eating the crust on its own is enough of a pleasure. The L.A. Woman is an instant classic, spread with a layer of sweet tomato sauce and large dollops of soft burrata that create a temperature yin-yang of piping hot crust and cool, light-as-air cheese. In the morning there is breakfast pizza, which at lesser pizzerias could play like a gimmick. Under the guidance of two master cooks, however, the luxuriant combination of roasted potatoes, bacon and Parmesan is just the thing to get you out of bed in the morning.

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