At Wexler's Deli in Grand Central Market, chef Micah Wexler is smoking all his own fish to great success. He also makes his own pastrami, has bread and bagels baked to his specifications and generally obsesses about every aspect of his small deli operation. But what has us completely smitten with Wexler's is the lox. Slick, supple and delicate, the cured salmon tastes like a rushing mountain river in the same way an ultra-fresh oyster tastes like the soul of the ocean. There's something in the flavor and texture that's wildly ethereal, a delicacy made all the more precious because of its affordability: At $11 for a bagel with lox, cream cheese and thinly sliced red onions, you could indulge in this breakfast regularly without fear of going broke.

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