The trick to preserving any culinary landmark is to remain relevant (steel-cut oatmeal) while staying true to your past (corned beef hash). It's a balance that Du-Par's has managed exceptionally well (French toast) at its original Farmers Market location, where regulars still can order a short stack at 2 a.m. and finish off with a slice of cherry pie. Or, should you prefer to venture into Du-Par's updated hash brown realm — a recipe updated after diner ownership passed into new chef-trained hands — well, you can do that, too. A fresh coat of 1930s Blue Plate Special paint never hurts. 6333 W. Third St., Fairfax District. (323) 933-8446; 12036 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. (818) 766-4437.

—Jenn Garbee

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