The best meals after midnight tend to be savory, meaty and spicy, to better soak up that alcohol and snap open droopy eyelids. Which might be why both Koreatown locations of BCD Tofu House are open 24 hours; indeed, both branches seem to be as bustling at 1 a.m. as they are at 1 p.m. You'll find bubbling cauldrons of soon (soft) tofu here, or diced tofu with your choice of meat, some vegetables and a raw egg, which will cook once you crack it into the boiling-hot pot. You can (and should) have the soon tofu with a side of kalbi or bulgogi; along with the parade of banchan that accompanies every Korean meal, you will be sobered up, wide awake and enormously satisfied. 3575 Wilshire Blvd., Koreatown. (213) 382-6677; 869 S. Western Ave., Koreatown. (213) 380-3807; —Tien Nguyen

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