It defies more than one convention that you can find pastries, gorgeously baked and arranged, at a neighborhood butcher shop. Yet at McCall's Meat & Fish Company, you can find not only the usual pastries but also beautifully constructed kouign-amann (pronounced kween ah-MON). A traditional Breton pastry made from laminated dough, shaped like a blossom that you'd carve in high school wood shop, each batch begins with more butter than should be decent — and tastes all the better because of it. Pastry chef and co-owner Karen Yoo has made certain no kouign-amann goes underbaked, which is as it should be. 2117 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz. (323) 667-0674, —Christine Chiao

LA Weekly