You may not stumble upon Dwit Gol Mok (DGM to the locals) easily, and that's by design. The behind-the-scenes bar technically is located on Wilshire Boulevard, but the entrance is around the corner, on Berendo, through a parking lot and an open courtyard, then up a few stairs. Inside you'll find marker graffiti on all of the bare, cement walls, small wooden tables under faux hut roofs and noise — lots of noise. The Cass beers are cheap and frequent to complement the seafood pancakes, the Korean chicken wings and the plentiful, pungent gochujang, which smothers lots of the other dishes. The party lasts long into the night at DGM, and about every 10 minutes it's someone's birthday, so be prepared to endure the most pop-synth version of “The Birthday Song” you've ever heard. If you'd like to sing along next time, there's a karaoke bar back across the courtyard. 3275 Wilshire Blvd., Koreatown. (213) 382-8432. —Farley Elliott

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