Enter a twinkling town square off Sixth Street, squeeze up a stockroom stairwell lined with crates of sake and enter into something of a grand ballroom, which is possibly an old church or a cavernous bank. This is Gaam Restaurant and Lounge's bright nighttime world. Here, overlooking Koreatown traffic, with a stream of soju and a steady rotation of K-pop music videos, the evening blends into the wee hours, and an early dinner can easily end in an all-night laser dance party. Accordingly, much of the food on Gaam's menu is the Korean equivalent of drunk comfort food, but any sober skeptic will drool over the vast, eclectic “spicy seafood soup,” whose scallops and tentacles sizzle through the ragefest on a personal flame pot, and the Hibachi steak, laid on a bed of tiny forest mushrooms. And if that's not enough party for you, the excellent Gaam Karaoke is waiting just two blocks east. 3465 W. Sixth St., Koreatown. (213) 388-8850, facebook.com/GaamLA.

—Simone Wilson

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