Few things are more glorious in Los Angeles than the scent of grilled meat wafting outward from Koreatown's epicenter. At twilight you might even be able to make out a smoky haze on the skyline, like a meat-fueled version of the elusive green flash. Korean barbecue fanatics always have a hard time pinning down an across-the-board favorite — Moo Dae Po for spicy jeju pork belly, Oo-Kook for short ribs, Choi Ga Nae for luscious strips of beef bacon. Yet the hot ticket these days, for good reason, is Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong, a Seoul-based chain owned by a famous wrestler and comedian who looks very much like a Korean version of Jack Black (their humor is similar, too, from our understanding). Cuts of rib-eye are beautifully marbled, the marinated pork belly sliced just so, and the dosirak, a kimchi-studded rice bowl shaken tableside with a gooey fried egg, is one of the most entertaining side dishes we've ever seen. Don't forget to have your picture taken with Kang Ho Dong's cardboard cutout located outside. 3465 W. Sixth St., Koreatown. (213) 384-9678.