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A timeless combination of good bread, good ham and good butter, jambon beurre is cropping up in more and more versions in L.A. these days. The classic French sandwich is hard to mess up — it's as if anyone smart enough to want to serve the thing must also be smart enough to do it right. So what makes the version at Petit Trois superior? Bread that's soft inside, crackly outside. Ham, cured in salt and boiled, Parisian-style. The addition of shaved radishes and puckery cornichons. But mainly it's the butter: Despite those other elements, this is primarily a butter sandwich, and butter (French, demi-sel beurre baratte, to which chef Ludo Lefebvre adds a touch of buckwheat honey) is mainly what you taste while chowing down. All the other components are merely a conveyance method for that delicious butter. Mmmmm, butter. —Besha Rodell

718 N Highland Ave., Hlywd. (323) 468-8916, petittrois.com.

LA Weekly