Opened in 1941, the Polo Lounge at the Beverly Hills Hotel continues to be the most glamorous restaurant in the Los Angeles area. Bar none. (Heck, we saw Warren Beatty there just a few months ago.) Of course, glamour is always difficult to define. For us, it has to do with an elegant, understated style and a kind of worldly sophistication. The Polo Lounge has all these things, plus an extremely attentive waitstaff. L.A.'s true heavy hitters with class — like Beatty — go to the Polo Lounge, and we have a special fondness for the gardenlike outdoor patio, especially at night, with its candlelit ambience. The spice-crusted wild salmon isn't cheap, but you're buying an experience — and one worth having whenever possible. People often go in search of glamour in this town and have a hard time finding it. Look no further. 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills. (310) 276-2251,

—Patrick Range McDonald

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