Sartorially speaking, Los Angeles is, without a doubt, having a hat moment. Day or night, indoors or out, the city is lousy with porkpies. But the truest hat fetishists remain unashamed. You mad hatters will want to visit a Goorin Bros. hat shop. In L.A., there are three: quaint little places, all, the original Melrose Goorin, the Old Town Pasadena shop and their newly opened sister store on Larchmont. They feel like throwbacks to an earlier era. Or, more precisely, to several earlier eras. And they should. The Goorin family has been making quality hats since humans had heads (OK, fine, since 1865). A woman can lose herself trying on 1920s cloches that hug the head, or naughty-innocent Lolita-style summer hats, or extrawide-brimmed, dramatic black floppy numbers best suited for burying your rich but inconvenient third husband. Men of style will appreciate the abundance of panamas, cadet caps, wicker-weave straw fedoras and 100 percent wool, crushable bowler hats straight out of a Magritte painting. That's more than enough hats for a town with infinite personalities. 49 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena. (626) 440-1895. Also 7627 Melrose Ave., Mid-City. (323) 951-0393. Also 141 ½ Larchmont Blvd., Larchmont Village. (323) 463-2006, goorin.com.