A daunting number of Korean barbecue restaurants exist in L.A.'s Koreatown, from which you can order ribs and slabs of beef and all manner of pork belly, cooked to smoky, Hite-fueled perfection at your table. But if that seems passé by now, you might try the duck palace on Olympic that is Sun Ha Jang. The little shop has been open for 20 or so years, but seven years ago duck was added to the menu, and folks have been flocking to the place ever since. Thin slices of young duckling (from Pitman Family Farms) is lovely stuff to throw on a grill, particularly one set into the middle of your table. The waterfowl is mildly funky and thick with fat, and thus pairs exceedingly well with the plates of lettuces and leeks and assorted banchan that fill your table. If this seems somewhat light fare, it's on purpose, as the duck is the appetizer: The real show is what comes after, when the copious duck fat is used to fry up a bowl of rice and the remains of whatever's left on your table into perhaps the best fried rice you've had in your life. Close your eyes and imagine your favorite takeout, as orchestrated by Paula Wolfert over a fire in southwest France. OK, maybe just head to Koreatown. —Amy Scattergood

4032 W. Olympic Blvd., Koreatown, 90019. (323) 634-9292, no website.

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