It's hard to argue effectively with your Italian godmother, particularly if she's several inches thick around the middle with a tangy bite and a penchant for hanging out with the wrong crowd. That's where the cold cut–clad sandwich by the same name at Bay Cities Italian Deli in Santa Monica comes in handy. It's a fantastic heap of Genoa salami, mortadella, capicollo, ham, prosciutto and provolone cheese piled onto an Italian roll. The small sub is just shy of $6, although it's worth the extra few nickels for the “works” (mustard, mayo, Italian dressing, pepper salad and a slew of sandwich veggies). But duly note this is an Old Country Godmother type who doesn't take kindly to change. There are no substitutions. Call-ahead submarine-sandwich drive-bys, of course, are not a problem. 1517 Lincoln Blvd., Santa Monica. (310) 395-8279,

—Jenn Garbee

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