There are as many versions of the chocolate twist as there are appetites to consume them. The most common structure involves skeins of bready yumminess deliberately intertwined with ribbons of chocolate. By comparison, the one at Amandine Café (baked, like everything else, in-house) seems almost like an afterthought. But, man, what a thought: Take one of the buttery, flaky, light-as-air croissants, with the crispy tips and paper-thin, crumbles-all-over-your-shirt layers, stretch it out into traditional twist format, and then dunk the whole thing in dark, melted chocolate. The slightly sweet chocolate hardens into a shell around the savory croissant. It is a marriage made in carbohydrate heaven. Best to arrive early in the day, because these puppies tend to disappear fast. 12225 Wilshire Blvd., Brentwood, 90025. (310) 979-3211, —Gendy Alimurung

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