Is there a restaurant in this fine city that does not currently have burrata on the menu? The seafood restaurants have it. The Peruvian restaurants have it. If it once topped pizzas and adorned simple Italian salads, it now tussles with sea urchin and gives soothing counsel to chili peppers. We most likely have Nancy Silverton to thank for this, given that burrata is one variance of the cheese she named her restaurant after, and as such it's only fitting that the best burrata dish in town is at Osteria Mozza. But here's an insider secret for you: The best burrata on the mozzarella list at Mozza is the burrata from Puglia, and the burrata from Puglia is best on Thursdays, that being the day it is flown in fresh. Paired with a rotating list of seasonal ingredients that act as subtle enhancers to the cheese, you get a bulbous white bundle that looks a little like a giant dumpling and is the size of a fat heirloom tomato. Break it open and revel in one of Italy's true gifts to our culinary lives — the distillation of the exact moment when cream becomes cheese. 6602 Melrose Ave., Hancock Park. (323) 297-0100,

—Besha Rodell

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