There's a friendly bustle and clamor to the room at Salt's Cure on Sundays during brunch, a welcoming din that somehow comforts you: This is how brunch is supposed to feel. The menu isn't long or overly fancy — there are thick, oatmeal griddle cakes; a ham, egg and cheese sandwich; and a bacon cheeseburger. Recently, a special of pork hash with eggs illustrated the kitchen's understanding of the concept of elegant grease. The smoked fish on toast — very good fish, very good bread, bitter greens, thin slices of red onion — is just about exactly what we'd make at home if we had the time and foresight, but thanks to Salt's Cure we didn't have to. Finish with a slice of the restaurant's sweet, slightly bitter, slightly salty grapefruit pie, because pie for brunch is awesome. 7494 Santa Monica Blvd., W. Hlywd. (323) 850-SALT, —Besha Rodell

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