In L.A,'s assuredly vast history of secret menus, it seems likely that none has been more interesting than the one that was available at the former Little London Fish & Chips, which, for a number of years, covertly served Bornean food. For perspective, the food being served was specifically Chinese-Indonesian, which is only a subset of the Indonesian food served in Borneo, an island split between Indonesia, Malaysia and Brunei. A couple years ago, Little London Fish & Chips formally became Borneo Kalimantan Cuisine, expanding its menu to include about 50 options, including Borneo-style laksa; the buttery, pan-fried bread called roti, and such standard Indonesian favorites as the peanut salad called gado-gado. Despite the expansion, the requisite order is still mi hokkian (Hokkianese noodles), which are executed to perfection: curly, tensile and bouncy enough to remind you of a phone cord; chewy enough that each thread is savored rather than slurped. There may not be a better stir-fried noodle in Los Angeles right now, secret or otherwise. —James Gordon

19 S. Garfield Ave., Unit A, Alhambra, 91801. (626) 282-4477, no website.

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