A bento box at Takamaru will come out quickly, impressively so for set lunches as varied as they are substantial. Bentos come in four options, including salmon, vegetarian and chicken; five if there's a special of the day. A behemoth in size and sheer range of options, the Gozen Bento defies the norm by which most bentos are defined. There are so many elements that the effort to keep everything in one box, as per tradition, is not even made. It comes instead with a main box, divided into four sections, and several satellite dishes. A manageable assortment of tempura (both shrimp and vegetable) is paired with tofu salad, a California roll and a salad of julienned burdock root. Your chosen main protein, whether black cod, salmon, chicken or rib-eye, will arrive in an oblong dish garnished with salad and steamed vegetables. Lest you think that a meal is incomplete without dessert, there's a choice of pudding or ice cream. 8474 W. Third St., #108, Beverly Grove. (323) 782-0181, takamaru.us. —Christine Chiao
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