The deity to worship at SugarFISH is not the holy mackerel but the holy albacore. As part of the “Trust Me” combination set, it arrives after the tuna sashimi, and before the halibut, at the beginning of the meal while you're still hungry enough to eat a whale. Butter-smooth, SugarFISH's albacore is a fish so tender it must never have known a hard day at sea in its life. A cutlet of it, half as big as a baby's fist, rests atop a dollop of warm sushi rice, the perfect example of Chef Kazunori Nozawa's belief in the supremacy of pure ingredients over fancy gimmick. Its only garnish is a smear of ponzu sauce and a few tiny pencil-shaving curls of green onion. Kitchen ops at this kinder, gentler, less stressful chip off the old Sushi Nozawa block are run by Tom Nozawa, son of the “sushi nazi” himself. So, yes, the omakase-style menu means the chef tells you what to eat, and when to eat it. But where the albacore is concerned, you won't mind being bossed around. 11640 W. San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood. (310) 820-4477; 4722 ¼ Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey. (310) 306-6300. —Gendy Alimurung

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