Surely you've noticed Tacos Leo parked at a 76 gas station on the corner of La Brea and Venice, if not because of the weekend crowds, then because of the tornado-shaped al pastor stacked and rotating on a spit right in front of the taco truck. This exclamation mark of meat is pretty much why you're here: For a mere buck per taco, a taquero will carve thin slices of al pastor — some singed with char, some not — onto a hot tortilla, flick a bit of pineapple on top and hand it off to you. It's beautiful and perfect in its simplicity, so much so that it doesn't really need salsa, or much of anything else. Two or three bites of bliss later, you'll dig into your pockets for a few more crumpled dollars and get back in line. After all, you just had one of the best tacos in the city. Exclamation mark. 1515 S. La Brea Ave., Mid-Wilshire. (323) 346-2001, —Tien Nguyen

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