Dear Mr. Gold:

When my brother and sister and I were 50 years younger, our parents would take us out to the old and now unfortunately long-gone steak houses of Los Angeles. There was not a menu that didn’t include beef stroganoff. Nowadays the dish seems to have disappeared altogether. Is my eyesight, along with the rest of me, passing into the great beyond, or are there still restaurants where we can find this?

—Z, Los Angeles

Dear Z:

Beef stroganoff, that stewlike dish of sautéed beef and sour cream, has not yet seen its revival. Like turkey tetrazzini and “Hungarian” goulash and that shrimp curry that mandates little dishes of raisins and slivered almonds be served alongside, it seems to have been entombed in yellowing boxes of recipe cards. But beef stroganoff remains weirdly popular in Brazil — it is practically the national dish — and most of the Los Angeles Brazilian restaurants have a version of it on the menu, slightly pinker and slightly sweeter than the stroganoff you may remember, possibly enhanced with crumbled potato chips, but still recognizably the same dish. I like the version at Café Toros. 3300 Overland Ave., W.L.A., (310) 838-8586.

LA Weekly