QUESTION: If you were, say, planning to spend a day
bumming around Santa Monica Beach, and you felt like getting tacos afterward,
where would you go? I’m not talking about the fancy kind at Border Grill or
anything, or even someplace like Gilbert’s where they might object to the soggy,
sandy state of a person’s shorts, but someplace simple with really good food.

—Sam, Glendale

ANSWER: It’s true: Now that monsoon season is over for
a while, Angelenos can get back to what they do best, which is to say glorying
in our good weather in a way that may involve bodysurfing in January, plus eating
spicy, seasonally appropriate food that costs almost nothing. Snowbound friends
on the East Coast love to hear us talk about stuff like that, so I recommend
that you do it as much as possible. As far as the combination of great Mexican
food and soggy board shorts, I recommend the excellent, excellent taco truck
called La Oaxaquena, parked evenings and weekends on Lincoln Avenue just south
of Rose in Venice, which serves delicious Oaxacan tlayudas and tamales
and such, also very decent carne asada tacos and burritos with thin taqueria
guacamole that is so good you may be tempted to lick it off your flip-flops.
The regulars at this truck are so intent on chewing the cecina in the
tacos that they probably wouldn’t notice if you forgot to wear pants.

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