Question: Onion rings. Where?

—Gus, Northridge

Answer: I was once under the impression that the best onion rings in Los Angeles were the ones that Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger used to serve with the baseball steak at the old City Restaurant, even though they gave you something like three. The natural-starter onion rings Campanile served with its cheeseburgers were pretty good too. (I once got a week of detention for sneaking off my high school campus for an order of Jack in the Box onion rings, but that’s a different matter.)

But I am somewhat older now, and I belatedly realize that the most delicious onion rings are not the ones grudgingly meted out at expensive restaurants but fragrant, golden tori freely served. The crunchy, flaky onion rings at the coffee shop Twohey’s in Alhambra are truly excellent examples of the genre. Still, my current allegiances lie with the puffy beer-battered beauties at Wolfe Burger in nearby Pasadena, delicate as a good Indian pakora but with a distinct, fresh-onion sweetness that seems to come only from the best hamburger stands. And the dense, musky chili is superb. Wolfe Burger, 46 N. Lake Ave., Pasadena, (626) 792-7292.

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