Oh, Vietnamese corn, with your fresh yellow kernels, wok-cooked with spring onions and glazed bits of pork belly! Is there anything lovelier than you on the menu at Susan Feniger's Street? I mean, besides the Egyptian kushary (spiced rice, lentils and tiny nuggets nestled alongside long-cooked collard greens), or the delectable puffs of potato, chutney and slightly sprouted beans known as paani puri, or the saag paneer with homemade Indian cheese, tomatoes and side of dried plum dal to go with all that ridiculously spinach-y goodness. I guess you're in good company, Vietnamese corn. And I'd add more, but that's all I had a chance to eat on Sunday night at the trial service of Street. I must return.

Street, 742 N. Highland Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 203-0500 or www.eatatstreet.com.

Also: Read Jonathan Gold's First Bite on Street.

LA Weekly