Peruvian chef Ricardo Zarate is back with Rosaliné, a West Hollywood restaurant named for his mother. The scale of the place is more moderate than some of the huge, sprawling restaurants he headed before, and it feels more personal as a result. The talent that shot Zarate to success in the first place is on full display here, and fans of his past cooking will recognize the format and the flavors: so much to choose from, so much brightness, a deft mix of traditional Peruvian dishes and ingredients, and the vivid, fresh, meant-for-sharing aesthetic upon which L.A. dining thrives (an aesthetic that, it could be argued, Zarate had a hand in creating). This is not food you can eat casually, without much thought; it demands your attention. Read Besha Rodell's full review.
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