fbpx

A Visual Tour of Electric Owl, the New Restaurant From Umami Burger's Opening Chef


Creamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamelCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumbleCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamelCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumblepine nut crumbleCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumbleGrilled carrots with tamarind steak sauceCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumblealmondCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumblealmondCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumblealmondCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumblealmondCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumblealmondCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumblestracciatella cheeseCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumblecarrot romescoCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumblecarrot romescoCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumblesunny eggCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumbleoreganoCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumbleoreganoCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumbleoreganoCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumbleoreganoCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumblelamb pancettaCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumbleegg yolkCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumbleegg yolkCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumbleegg yolkCreamed bitter greens with goat’s milk bechamel, dried tomatoes, pine nut crumble

There was a time, a few years back, when cleverness seemed to dominate the New American food dialogue, and one of the voices at the forefront of that dialogue in L.A. was Ernesto Uchimura. He was the opening chef of Umami Burger, the chain built on ingenuity and wit, and the chef who launched Plan Check, where he came up with items such as kim-cheese. At his new restaurant, Electric Owl in West Hollywood, you'll hear servers refer reverentially to Uchimura's days at Plan Check, telling customers, “He's the chef who invented ketchup leather.” But at Electric Owl, Uchimura takes a couple of baby steps away from that type of cleverness — dare I call it gimmickry? — toward cooking rooted in technique. Read Besha Rodell's full review here.