77: Agedashi Tofu at Izakaya Bincho

Leading up to this year's Best of L.A. issue (due out Oct. 4), we'll be counting down, in no particular order, 100 of our favorite dishes.

77: Agedashi Tofu at Izakaya Bincho.

At Izakaya Bincho, a cubbyhole of a restaurant hidden along the boardwalk Redondo Beach Pie, chef Tomo Ueno might have been best known for his skewers of charcoal-grilled chicken yakitori: plump meatballs bursting with schmaltz, slices of heart glazed with sauce, cubes of breast dotted with plum paste and shiso. At some point though, the plumes of smoke wafting from his grill upset a next door neighbor and Tomo-san's epic grilling was struck down by the iron fist of the county heath board. The restaurant's regulars shed tears as brackish as the Japanese rock salt used to season the meat.

There was a silver lining though: Tomo-san could whip up an impeccable agedashi tofu, a delicate dish often overlooked at Japanese izakayas, which are often known better for smoky skewers of meat, fried snacks, and pitchers of beer rimmed with ice.

Every batch is made to order: a few pale cubes of silken tofu lightly dusted with batter and fried until they're surrounded by crisp golden shells. A ladle of slighty-sweet dashi broth, complex in flavor and intensely comforting, is poured over the top. There is a handful of snowy shaved mountain yam, dried seaweed and diced green onion sprinkled on top. The tofu spills out like boiling hot custard. The outer edges have the oily crunch of the best tempura you've ever had.

For the past three years during the great yakitori drought, Izakaya Bincho seemed to survive on the glory of its agedashi. Now, with a new ventilation system in place, the yakitori has returned and all is well with the world. You can have your tofu — and eat it too.

100: Lukshon's Dan Dan Noodles

99: Cemita de Milanesa at Cemitas Poblanos Elviritas #1

98: Chichen Itza's Cochinita Pibil

97: Tsukemen at Tsujita L.A.

96: La Cevicheria's Bloody Clam Ceviche

95: Duck Shawarma at Momed

94: Peruvian Chicken at Pollo a la Brasa

93: Squash Blossom Quesadilla at Antojitos Carmen

92: Thai Boat Noodles at Pa-Ord

91: Baco Mercat's Bazole

90: Furikake Kettle Corn at A-Frame

89: Live Santa Barbara Spot Prawns at Providence

88: Fried Pig Tails at Night + Market

87: Egg Salad Sandwich at Euro Pane

86: Galbi Jjim at Soban

85: Truffle Honey-Laced Fried Chicken at Manhattan Beach Post

84: Mool Naeng Myun at Yu Chic Naeng Myun

83: Chicken Vampiro at Mexicali Taco & Co

82: Sooo Cali Dog at Dog Haus

81: White Anchovy, Tomato and Fresno Chile Pizza at Pizzeria Mozza

80: Shu Mai at Elite Restaurant

79: Tandoori Chicken at Al-Watan

78: Chocolate Bread and Butter Pudding at The Hungry Cat

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