Leading up to this year's Best of L.A. issue (due out Oct. 4), we'll be counting down, in no particular order, 100 of our favorite dishes.
62: Whole Channel Island Red Sea Urchin at Water Grill.
There's a lot to indulge in at Water Grill. There's the rotating list of oysters on the half shell. There's the iced shellfish platters with oysters, shrimp, clams and lobster. There's even a pound of prime rib eye if that's what floats your boat.
But perhaps our favorite extravagance at Water Grill is the whole Channel Island red sea urchin. Harvested off of the California coast and served here beside its spiny shell, the heaping pumpkin-colored roe is as sexy as food gets — creamy, rich, ridiculously indulgent. Added to its outrageous oceanic funk is a perfumy, almost otherworldly flavor, like a whisper of flower garden injected into something pulled up from the bottom of the ocean.
Like ice cream, oysters and fancy perfume all rolled into one weird, fantastic few mouthfuls, it's food at its most arresting, its most magical. As a mid-afternoon snack with a glass of champagne, it's the ultimate act of self indulgence.
Check out the rest of our 100 of our favorite dishes. Suggestion? Write us a comment.
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