Michele Stueven
Nestled inconspicuously on the 10th floor of the Conrad Los Angeles in downtown L.A., famed chef José Andrés opened San Laurel a year ago, showcasing his blend of California and Spanish cuisine. With dramatic views of the Walt Disney Concert Hall, and artfully designed within the landscape of The Broad and The Museum of Contemporary Art, San Laurel will introduce Andres’ chef’s table program to the elegant restaurant on Sunday, Oct. 1.
With two tables of 10 available, one on the terrace, and one in view of the bustling kitchen helmed by kinetic executive chef Jeffry Chen, the reasonable $150 experience starts with a welcome cocktail, followed by a seven-course tasting menu (wine pairings that include some exceptional Spanish offerings come at an additional cost.) Chen has worked closely with Andrés since his stint as executive sous chef at The Bazaar and prepared thousands of meals during COVID at Dodger Stadium as part of the Spanish chef’s noble World Central Kitchen program, which provides healthy food to families and individuals touched by disasters.
Asparagus and chile de arbol, trout roe and herbs (Michele Stueven)
Highlights to kick off the new seasonal menu starts with a salad of Harry’s Berries strawberries with ricotta, lemon and basil, and an asparagus bomb prepared in Andrés’ signature reverse spherification technique, served with chile de arbol, trout roe and herbs. Next up, a hiramasa crudo with buttermilk leche de tigre, baby corn and burnt onion ginger oil. As an intermezzo to the main event, a flaky individual Idiazabal Brioche is presented with smoked bay butter. Main courses include black bass with tomato, tamarind, harissa, and squid ink, as well as an out-of-the-ordinary A4 Miyazaki wagyu with celery root and dijonaise — a perfect pairing to the Vega Sicilia Alion Tempranillo blend.
Named one of the “Best New Hotels in the World” in both Travel + Leisure’s It List and Condé Nast Traveler’s Hot List, Conrad Los Angeles opened last year as part of The Grand L.A. complex designed by Frank Gehry with an interior design from London-based Tara Bernerd & Partners.
Set back off Grand Avenue in what was once residential Bunker Hill, the 305-room luxury hotel’s rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows. The Grand Avenue Suite includes a private terrace with views of the city, an elegant dining room, a formal living room with a built-in bar, and a sprawling master bedroom with a five-piece bathroom and walk-in wardrobe.
San Laurel Terrace (Courtesy The Conrad)
The hotel’s indoor/outdoor lobby along with the restaurant on the 10th floor with wraparound views of downtown and beyond, also houses a spa, private pool deck and Andrés’ open-air, rooftop concept, Agua Viva, featuring a Latin and Asian-inspired menu including brunch.
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