Lou Amdur

Finding good confit is not easy in Los Angeles. Making it is a long process: Seasoned duck is salt-cured, slow-cooked in rendered fat, and put up in jars to mellow for a month or more. It‘s worth the wait. Confit is not only functional -- it’s an archaic method of......

IN DAYS OF YORE, WHEN I SMELLED HEBREW Nationals on the grill, the beer center of my brain would awaken. Now, as I enter the ranks of middle-age bourgeoisdom, I rarely find myself reaching for a beer. I want wine, even in the most hellish of dog days. One simple......

I was taken to the Pantry for breakfast on my first visit to L.A., in the mid-’80s. I relished its Depression-era atmosphere, replete with dim lighting, smudged walls, and ancient waiters who appeared to have taken a cue from a John Sloan painting. Although the restaurant now sports a fresher......