Besha Rodell

Confit fava beans with curry lemon

Restaurant Review: A Vegetable-Focused Bistro From a Chef Who Is Ahead of His Time

Chef Josef Centeno is doing something slightly different at P.Y.T. than at his previous restaurants, something that makes this newest venture relevant in its own right. Where all the food at his Bäco Mercat — meat and meat-free — is aiming for maximum flavor and contrast and excitement, the food at P.Y.T. is more focused on the soul of the vegetable itself, and the best way to frame singular ingredients so they shine....