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Need a visual aid for your print edition? Jonathan Gold visits the noodle palace (“thick, irregular things, frilled on one edge like the gills of an oyster, and about the size and heft of a businessman's belt”) of JTYH Restaurant in Rosemead. Click through for Anne Fishbein's spectacular photos and read more in Gold's Counter Intelligence, “Heavy Noodling II: Knife-Shaved Pasta, The Next Generation.”

appetizer of cold stirred bean curd sheet; Credit: Anne Fishbein

appetizer of cold stirred bean curd sheet; Credit: Anne Fishbein

pan cake with beef; Credit: Anne Fishbein

pan cake with beef; Credit: Anne Fishbein

beef stewed noodle soup; Credit: Anne Fishbein

beef stewed noodle soup; Credit: Anne Fishbein

close-up of knife cut noodle; Credit: Anne Fishbein

close-up of knife cut noodle; Credit: Anne Fishbein

knife cut noodles and beef before adding the broth; Credit: Anne Fishbein

knife cut noodles and beef before adding the broth; Credit: Anne Fishbein

mooshu fried noodle; Credit: Anne Fishbein

mooshu fried noodle; Credit: Anne Fishbein

side view of pan fried bun with leek; Credit: Anne Fishbein

side view of pan fried bun with leek; Credit: Anne Fishbein

pan fried bun with leek; Credit: Anne Fishbein

pan fried bun with leek; Credit: Anne Fishbein

JTYH fan Fiona preparing a bowl of noodle soup; Credit: Anne Fishbein

JTYH fan Fiona preparing a bowl of noodle soup; Credit: Anne Fishbein

Chef Shi cuts the noodles; Credit: Anne Fishbein

Chef Shi cuts the noodles; Credit: Anne Fishbein

Exterior; Credit: Anne Fishbein

Exterior; Credit: Anne Fishbein