In which Jonathan Gold heads downtown to another installment of Laurent Quenioux's traveling French culinary show at Starry Kitchen.

I ended up at LQ@SK on an evening where the restaurant had been block-booked by a group called the Gastronauts, a dining club whose members live for offal-intensive monthly dinners that may revolve around Palestinian roast lamb, or Isaan Thai dinners featuring spare parts. Quenioux, no stranger to odd meats, was cooking things unfamiliar even to him.

Read the complete story in Gold's Counter Intelligence, “Avez Vous Beaver Leg?” and check out Anne Fishbein's photo gallery. Then, probably, get in your car.

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