Lucques: Suzanne Goin holds a plate of arugala, blood oranges, dates, Parmesan.

How infuriating is it to prepare all that fabulous food for a coterie of bone-thin, bobble-headed starlets who seem allergic to carbs, to fat, to anything that isn't mixed greens or plain-tart frozen yogurt? We may never know. Chef Suzanne Goin of Lucques is again preparing the menu for this Sunday's SAG Awards.

When asked how she selected a menu for the notoriously carb-averse above-the-line crowd, Goin chuckled and said, “Yes, there are certain… requirements. I went heavy on the proteins, the legumes and the vegetables.”

Far more challenging is creating 1,250 plates, each of which look as good as the first and can sit for a couple hours without the food losing its visual appeal or turning rubbery and flavorless. What did Goin decide to serve?

Working with the SAG Awards committee, chaired by JoBeth Williams (we love her in “Stir Crazy” — and “Poltergeist”), Goin presented five selections on three plates. Williams, who described Goin's menu for last year's event as “brilliant” and “a tremendous success,” also praises Goin for her openness and willingness to tweak specific ingredients.

After much sampling, they decided on a green salad spiked with a hit of citrus from blood oranges, which are currently in high season. Grains come in the form of a beluga lentil salad, which replaces the tabouli on last year's menu. They were tempted by beef but finally decided on Colorado lamb with a tangy green dressing of feta salsa verde. One thing that didn't change from last year: a cold salmon salad with cucumbers, yogurt and a ginger-mint chutney. It was the hands-down favorite at last year's event.

Lucques:

Beluga lentils with carrots, pine nuts and feta.

Lucques:

Arugala, blood oranges, dates, Parmesan.

Lucques:

Slow-roasted king salmon, cucumber, yogurt, ginger-mint curry.

Lucques: Roast Lamb

Slow-roasted lamb with chickpeas, black olives and feta salsa verde.

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