How many lounges are there in Hollywood? You may as well ask how many grains of sand lie along the shore? But Rockwell, the sister of Los Feliz perennial Vermont, is actually a comfortable place to spend an evening, a highly architected space hidden off an alley where it is all but impossible to tell under the low lights what part of the dining room is inside and which is out, where the cocktail you have just been handed is a Lovely Pear or an oddball tincture of cucumber, or whether the couple two booths over is making out or just playing a spirited game of checkers. If you’ve dined after 11 anywhere near this zip code, you probably know what is going to end up on your plate, but the flatbread made with Spanish chorizo is a nice touch, the chicken is beautifully fried, and the truffled goat cheese ravioli taste a lot like truffles and goat, which has to be considered a victory under the circumstances. Roasted pineapple parfait? You don’t have to ask us twice.

Rockwell: 1714 N. Vermont Ave., Los Feliz. (323) 669-1550

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