Today's restaurant review focuses on Spago, Wolfgang Puck's newly remodeled restaurant in Beverly Hills. Read the full review, or take a quick tour of the facts, plus a few extras, below.

Food: A mind boggling tour of the world's cuisines, done up fancy Southern-Californian style. From the review: “There's a sense of decadence, yes, but it's almost a throwback to the grand-hotel dining of 100 years ago. Where else could you go to have almost any dining whim fulfilled, be it Hong Kong-style lobster tails, a whole roast duck, côte de boeuf, or tagliatelle showered in fresh white truffles? There's a dry-aged New York steak with potato bacon terrine for the steak-and-potatoes lot, served with a silky, oniony steak sauce. There's a chirashi sushi plate, which presents changing combinations of pristine fish and salmon roe.” All that is fine, but Sherry Yard's desserts are probably the best thing you'll have all night.

Drink: Spago has one of the most extensive wine lists in town, with a focus on France, California, and an awesome selection of Austrian and German wines. Cocktails are froufy (lots of fruity drinks, lots of Champagne-topped drinks), expensive, and pretty fun.

Looks: Sleek, white, modern but classy. From the review: “Gone is the Tuscany-meets-California wine country-meets-1992 decor, its jewel tones and subtle brocades and wood accents replaced with a sleek, white room. In back, meticulous cooks work in the glassed-in kitchen. One wall showcases the restaurant's formidable wine collection, also behind glass. Large, modern pieces of art punctuate the otherwise minimalist feel…”

Service: These guys are pros, in the old-school sense, They can de-bone a fish tableside and whisk a whole duck through the dining room above their heads gracefully. Wine service is impeccable. Your water will always be full.

Takeaway: 30 years ago, Puck set out to make fine dining fun. With the remodel of Spago, he's rediscovered that sense of glee.

Read the full review here.

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