Besha RodellOur restaurant review this week takes on BierBeisl, the Austrian restaurant that opened in Beverly Hills last February. You can read the full review, or check out the cheat sheet below.
The Chef: Bernhard Mairinger is very tall and very young. But more importantly, he's classically trained in the European tradition, and as a result his food — both traditional Austrian and slightly more creative, is a step above much of what we see these days. Speaking of food…
The Food: All the Austrian comfort food you could hope for, including fresh sausages, an amazing charcuterie plate, schnitzel, goulash and more. But also, meticulous dishes with Austrian influence and modern smarts.
The Drinks: Wine, beer and schnapps. A fantastic selection of Austrian wines, plus others that compliment the food. Great beer selection with some esoteric finds. A schnapps selection that will change your mind about schnapps.
The Service: Well meaning and a little odd. From the review: “BierBeisl's staff couldn't be more committed to the task, more supportive of Mairinger's vision. But they lack the oversight on the service front to fully follow through. It's hard to criticize such earnest service, yet they're easily overwhelmed.”
Takeaway: Three stars. A refreshingly meticulous restaurant, with some of the most careful, heartfelt cooking we've seen recently.
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