Tavern, Suzanne Goin's Brentwood bistro, takes the idea of “starters” seriously. These are no mini entrees and no creative acrobatics on the plate here. Instead, you'll be reintroduced to the simple pleasures of a salad, perhaps one composed of sautéed mushrooms over greens, or maybe farro with cubes of cheese and roasted squash, perked up with pesto. This is one of the most gorgeous restaurants in L.A.; the tall back room with its mirrored walls and indoor trees creates a magically romantic space. The hum of the “blue room” in front, where the bar faces casual seating, feels clubby and fun, a more relaxed option for drinks with colleagues or a less serious date than the back room would signal. Once you've moved on to the entrees, perhaps brisket with lentils and horseradish creme, or fish with a puree of root vegetable, and pored over the fantastic wine list, you will have remembered what a true California bistro is all about, before offal obsession and bro food took over: a focus on produce, and simple technique, and clean, modern, welcoming hospitality and cooking. 11648 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood; (310) 806-6464, tavernla.com. Breakfast: Mon.-Fri., 8-11 a.m. Lunch: Daily, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner: Mon.-Thurs., 5:30-9:30 p.m.; Fri. & Sat., 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Sun., 5-9:30 p.m. Brunch, Sat. & Sun., 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Entrees $25-$42. Full bar.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Anne Fishbein's Photography

The Google Map

 

The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

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