But there is a certain modern swagger at Takatis that is less readily available; a hip menu board scrawled in multicolored chalk; a sleek wood-fired oven retrofitted in the back counter. If you were a fan of Chimú, Mario Alberto Orellana's stellar-but-shuttered Peruvian takeout counter at Grand Central Market, walking into a place like this might inspire renewed pangs of excitement. Read the story.
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