If you think there can be too many beautiful odes to pork, then you may be in the wrong place. You cannot. And you sure can't around here. This week Jonathan Gold visits Wako Donkasu, a Japanese place in Koreatown that specializes in tonkatsu, or fried pork cutlet.
Is it the few grams of spicy radish kimchi that makes it onto the table? Is it the chilled barley water? Is it the dark wood and wrought iron? Is it the generosity of the cutlets themselves, which bring to mind the pork tenderloin sandwiches you get at Main Street Iowa cafes? It's hard to tell.
Read the complete story in Gold's Counter Intelligence, "Swine of Summer:
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Wako Donkasu serves Japanese tonkatsu with a K-town twist," and check out Anne Fishbein's photo gallery. Then, probably, get in your car.