Summer is almost upon us and that is good enough reason to drink more beer, as if you needed one. With or without bratwurst. With or without baseball. And thus to this week's Counter Intelligence and Jonathan Gold's review of Steingarten, the newish beer hall in west L.A. Your Jeffrey Steingarten joke here: _______.
Have a burger. But know that Steingarten exists mostly as a conduit between humanity and beer, at least to that slice of humanity for whom Pint Night exists as more than a concept, the people who become excited rather than terrified when they see the words Experimental Raspberry on a beer list.